We recently purchased 6 Trailblazer 325 units all this year. We are upgrading our fleet from bobcat unit to eliminate the drain on unit when welding and using 120 power for other projects. So far we have had nothing but problems with these units the first 2 units both with under 50hrs continue to have tmp1 errors. I believe this is due to inefficient airflow and construction of unit. I think the tmp1 Error is notification a thermal overload switch has opened. of the 2 units one we have been able to utilize with a fan constantly running on unit. the other still suffers and continues to have Problems ( it is located in Texas with higher Outside Temperatures ). The older bobcat units ran for years and all had around 2k hrs with no issues. Please let me know if this issue is being addressed. There should be a recall on this product and a revamping of design to improve airflow. Very Frustrated with performance. Don't want to return them yet just want issue resolved.
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Trailblazer 325 tmp1 error
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Syncrowave 210 will not boot up
I just bought a Miller Syncrowave 210 welder two weeks ago
today I welded for some time
took a break for lunch
turned it back on
display board displays Syncrowave 210
no menu options come up
any suggestions
Thanks
Bob
today I welded for some time
took a break for lunch
turned it back on
display board displays Syncrowave 210
no menu options come up
any suggestions
Thanks
Bob
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Gate Latch Fabrication
On the rear of my property I have a six foot fence with a gate that borders the alternative high school. The factory gate latch was made out of 1/8" steel and was very wimpy. Some time in the last two weeks when they mowed the school yard I think that the tractor hit the gate and knocked it off its hinges. At the same time the latch portion of the gate latch assembly disappeared. I looked around but couldn't find it, so I made a new improved one. Instead of 1/8" steel I used 1/4". I TIG welded the latch because I would have to back my car out of the garage to access the MIG welder, so time wise it was a wash.
I modeled it in SolidWorks so that I could make a print to use as a template for bending the strap and a second template to use as a drilling and contouring guide for the pivot portion of the gate latch. To bend the strap I wrapped in around a piece of 2-3/4" bar stock in the vise. I bent it until it matched the print. For the pivot portion of the latch I glued the print to the steel part and transferred the holes and contouring.
It's not like I need it secure because I never lock it anyway. I just don't like it swinging around because at the extreme of travel the hinge bottoms out when it hits and bends the fence that is attached to the gate. It can also rotate the portion of the hinge that is attached to the post, which is how the gate fell off.
Don
I modeled it in SolidWorks so that I could make a print to use as a template for bending the strap and a second template to use as a drilling and contouring guide for the pivot portion of the gate latch. To bend the strap I wrapped in around a piece of 2-3/4" bar stock in the vise. I bent it until it matched the print. For the pivot portion of the latch I glued the print to the steel part and transferred the holes and contouring.
It's not like I need it secure because I never lock it anyway. I just don't like it swinging around because at the extreme of travel the hinge bottoms out when it hits and bends the fence that is attached to the gate. It can also rotate the portion of the hinge that is attached to the post, which is how the gate fell off.
Don
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Need Help buying Sycrowave 250 dx
Hi Folks I have the chance to buy a 250 DX( 16 hours on machine) it's equipped with a coolin system and one as new also with no cooler. But was wondering if cooling system would be a pain in the butt ,cause my shop(garage is not heated in winter) when not in use and here in Canada it can get cold as you know...
What's your advice and thanks for reading.......AG
What's your advice and thanks for reading.......AG
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Miller's 3 phase generator side of the Big Blue 500 & larger
Can someone please explain the generator side of the Big Blue machines with respect to powering a 3 phase motor in an iron worker or plasma cutter?
I have a '99 Thermal Arc Predator that has 480V three phase and it was purchased to power my Geka iron worker.
Miller didn't offer any three phase engine drives then to the best of my knowledge either.
When studying the literature on the BigBlue machines I see three phase but nothing as far a connectors, etc.
Is the three phase for the welding circuitry only?
Thanks,
Tom
I have a '99 Thermal Arc Predator that has 480V three phase and it was purchased to power my Geka iron worker.
Miller didn't offer any three phase engine drives then to the best of my knowledge either.
When studying the literature on the BigBlue machines I see three phase but nothing as far a connectors, etc.
Is the three phase for the welding circuitry only?
Thanks,
Tom
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old but good miller welder
How do I find the location of the serial number on an old miller welder?
The control panel has completely faded from the sun here in Nevada. I can get it started (it starts easy). I just cannot adjust any thing as there are no markings on the control panel. The ignition switch was froze up I jumped that and started the engine. I am sure I can follow the wires and make sure they are OK, but I do not know what the various switches and controls are for. HELP
The control panel has completely faded from the sun here in Nevada. I can get it started (it starts easy). I just cannot adjust any thing as there are no markings on the control panel. The ignition switch was froze up I jumped that and started the engine. I am sure I can follow the wires and make sure they are OK, but I do not know what the various switches and controls are for. HELP
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HF-251-D1 power sources
What welding power sources are compatible with an HF-251-D1 high frequency spark starter?
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Gas flow problem on a Millermatic 350P
We have a millermatic 350P that we bought brand new about 4 months ago. We have been having an issue where the gas flow becomes intermittent when we are using it for a while and really getting the machine hot. It has been back to the local dealer twice for repairs and it is about to go back again. I figured I'd post on here and see if anyone has any ideas since they don't seem to be having much luck with it at the welding supply.
What will happen is it will weld fine for a period of time (usually 15-30 minutes or so) and then when you are about an inch or so into a bead the gas flow will drop and the weld will completely bug hole out. If you stop and pull the trigger it will blow gas and it will blow gas for an inch or so of bead and then it will bug hole out again. It will weld like this until it cools down
The first time it went in for repair they replaced the gas solenoid.
After we got it back it seemed like it did better for a while but when the guys got running it hard one day the problem came back. I took the side panel off where the gas solenoid is and when it was having the problem the gas solenoid was over 200 degrees F. I also seemed to help leaving the cover off.
The next time a sent it back telling the tech about how hot the solenoid was getting they replaced the solenoid and a temperature sensor.
Now that we have it back again it is still having the same issue.
This is our first 350P and at this point I'm really wishing we'd bought another 252. This machine is being run right along side other millermatics (250s - 252s) and they never have issues. The guys love the 350p when it works but no one will use it because when it looses gas flow they end up having to do a bunch of grinding.
Does anyone have any ideas? Is there something else that could be causing the gas solenoid to overheat? Some other issue that could cause the gas flow to drop during a weld? At one point I wondered if it had dirt in the gas line from when it was built so I put a flow meter gauge on it and I can never see the flow gauge drop. We've tried different wire, gas, gas line, different gun all to no avail.
What will happen is it will weld fine for a period of time (usually 15-30 minutes or so) and then when you are about an inch or so into a bead the gas flow will drop and the weld will completely bug hole out. If you stop and pull the trigger it will blow gas and it will blow gas for an inch or so of bead and then it will bug hole out again. It will weld like this until it cools down
The first time it went in for repair they replaced the gas solenoid.
After we got it back it seemed like it did better for a while but when the guys got running it hard one day the problem came back. I took the side panel off where the gas solenoid is and when it was having the problem the gas solenoid was over 200 degrees F. I also seemed to help leaving the cover off.
The next time a sent it back telling the tech about how hot the solenoid was getting they replaced the solenoid and a temperature sensor.
Now that we have it back again it is still having the same issue.
This is our first 350P and at this point I'm really wishing we'd bought another 252. This machine is being run right along side other millermatics (250s - 252s) and they never have issues. The guys love the 350p when it works but no one will use it because when it looses gas flow they end up having to do a bunch of grinding.
Does anyone have any ideas? Is there something else that could be causing the gas solenoid to overheat? Some other issue that could cause the gas flow to drop during a weld? At one point I wondered if it had dirt in the gas line from when it was built so I put a flow meter gauge on it and I can never see the flow gauge drop. We've tried different wire, gas, gas line, different gun all to no avail.
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How to connect Maxtron 450 and XR-A Push-Pull Gun
Hi,
I am new to the forum but have been reading for awhile. I have not been able to find any topics that cover what I am about to ask...
I have a Maxtron 450 (KF789983) power supply connected to a S-64M wire feeder (LC326095) and I am wondering how to properly connect an XR-A push pull gun using the WC-24 weld control adapter?
My power supply only has one 14pin output and I presumably need to plug in both the feeder and the weld control adapter. Do I need to make a 14 pin splitter or can the three used pins in the WC-24 14 pin connector be converted to plug in somewhere else?
Thank you in advance for any help.
I am new to the forum but have been reading for awhile. I have not been able to find any topics that cover what I am about to ask...
I have a Maxtron 450 (KF789983) power supply connected to a S-64M wire feeder (LC326095) and I am wondering how to properly connect an XR-A push pull gun using the WC-24 weld control adapter?
My power supply only has one 14pin output and I presumably need to plug in both the feeder and the weld control adapter. Do I need to make a 14 pin splitter or can the three used pins in the WC-24 14 pin connector be converted to plug in somewhere else?
Thank you in advance for any help.
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what size welding tanks on service truck?
I'm building myself a flatbed to work off. While on site. I own all k size tanks at the moment. And haul my enclosed trailer everywhere. Trying to park the trailer . What size tanks do you guys with trucks carry . I'll be carrying argon and 75/25. Plus my torch setup. What's recommended .
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What is a sycrowave 250dx with an intergrated cooler
A follow up on my previous post on 250DX, on one it's obvious it has the cooling system you see under the machine and the other says it has intergrated cooler but in pic I just see a regular 250dx....I'm I missing something!!!! Need help from miller experts.
Thanks! AG
Thanks! AG
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honey comb looking welds
I am new to welding, I recently purchased a new miller 211 mvp, (about 1 year ago) I seems that the welds look like honey combs, the tank shows pressure is at 1500 I don't think that empty, I have used almost an entire 11 lb roll of wire, it is very frustrating, I have argon/02 set at 15lb any advice. Thanks decaro
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new member
just saying hello newb to the forum and welding
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Milermatic 200
Hello and thanks for the time. I am trying to clear up some confusion on a purchase I made recently of the above mentioned welder. Can someone tell me at what point in time or at what sequential serial number that the Miller brand of welders were changed internally to the machines of the ITW era. I have been told that these ITW era machines were basically junk when compared to the older style millermatic 200s. My bit of re-search has shown that ITW and Miller did not partner with one another until some point in 1993 so Im assuming everything prior to that was still a decent welder. ( assuming again that the ITW era machines were in fact junk ) I am able to tell when my machine was manufactured from this listing http://www.millerwelds.com/service/s...reference.html but again it does not give the information specifically that I seek.
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Maxtron 450 - What is this for?
I recently bought a 1995 model Maxtron 450. I have spent a fair amount of time reading through the manual and I have not been able to find out what the mystery switch and dial are for on the front of my machine. Any help would be Pictures below...
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Needing a control board diagram or component ID for Syncrowave 180SD
We just had a component on our control board of our Syncrowave 180SD blow. Problem is, it pretty much destroyed itself so we can't make out what the component is in order to fix it. If anyone has a diagram for the board or could ID the components (position c78 and c13 are the ones we are most concerned with) so we could replace them, that would be great. It is the non-digital version and Serial no is LB234332 (stock no is 907013 if that helps). I have a picture of it as well, I just need to figure out how to upload it.
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day zero....sigh
Hello everyone.
I am about to begin an auto resto and will surely need to weld some things. I have used a cutting torch, oxy actl, but not a Mig. As I understand it you have to heat both parts and flow a bead in overlapping circles and make three passes. Is that right? I realize that this is oversimplification. I expect to join a variety of scraps together until I have the "hang" of it. Any other tips?
Thanks. Have not purchased a MIG yet.
I am about to begin an auto resto and will surely need to weld some things. I have used a cutting torch, oxy actl, but not a Mig. As I understand it you have to heat both parts and flow a bead in overlapping circles and make three passes. Is that right? I realize that this is oversimplification. I expect to join a variety of scraps together until I have the "hang" of it. Any other tips?
Thanks. Have not purchased a MIG yet.
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Retrofitting A Low End Plastic Liner With A Steel One
Retrofit a 3/32" Plastic Wire Liner With Any Steel Liner
I have a Speedway 125 Series flux wire welder.
The plastic liner is shot. It plugged it self up solid with shavings from the inside of itself. . .
I figure a steel liner won't have that problem.
See the relevant pic here (photo and data of my actual hardware)
http://i.imgur.com/pJAlkXH.jpg
Problem is, steel liners are usually called out by P/N from a parts list so nobody cares to offer diameters and other dimensions for people doing what I am and it makes it hard. The road less traveled again. . .
Ie. The vendor has no need to provide dimensions on the diameter of the actual liner and the length and diameter of any compression nuts or terminators on the ends and so on.
Can anybody help with this?
What I really need is to be able to get a caliper on a couple different common liners and find the one that I can get to work without modifying my existing parts [too much].
Here is a photo of the critical parts from my welder/gun with all measurements that might be needed. The left two parts are what hold the liner in front of the feeder drive. The right two parts are from the gun.
I don't have TPI on the threads but I can get that data if needed.
The length of my current gun lead is a tad short of 11 feet.
The flux wire size is .030-.035.
I looked at the miller 194011. It looks like a good low friction liner. But I don't know the diameter. I have seen a pic that indicated the thread at the nut is 3/8 so it won't fit my existing thread but it doesn't really have to. It just has to sit there close in front of the feeder to keep the wire from pushing the liner out the front of the welder right?
What would be nice is if the liner can self tap into the threads of that ferule you see in the pic on the gun end of the liner. That is how the plastic liner was secured in the gun. This is where the actual O.D. of the steel/plastic coating on the liner come into play.
I should be safe from fire as there is a good plastic strain releif where the wires go out the front of the welder and the big brass hardware in the picture affixes to a plastic chassis in front of the wire feeder using the washers and nut seen on it in the picture.
Thanks for any help in advance.
I have a Speedway 125 Series flux wire welder.
The plastic liner is shot. It plugged it self up solid with shavings from the inside of itself. . .
I figure a steel liner won't have that problem.
See the relevant pic here (photo and data of my actual hardware)
http://i.imgur.com/pJAlkXH.jpg
Problem is, steel liners are usually called out by P/N from a parts list so nobody cares to offer diameters and other dimensions for people doing what I am and it makes it hard. The road less traveled again. . .
Ie. The vendor has no need to provide dimensions on the diameter of the actual liner and the length and diameter of any compression nuts or terminators on the ends and so on.
Can anybody help with this?
What I really need is to be able to get a caliper on a couple different common liners and find the one that I can get to work without modifying my existing parts [too much].
Here is a photo of the critical parts from my welder/gun with all measurements that might be needed. The left two parts are what hold the liner in front of the feeder drive. The right two parts are from the gun.
I don't have TPI on the threads but I can get that data if needed.
The length of my current gun lead is a tad short of 11 feet.
The flux wire size is .030-.035.
I looked at the miller 194011. It looks like a good low friction liner. But I don't know the diameter. I have seen a pic that indicated the thread at the nut is 3/8 so it won't fit my existing thread but it doesn't really have to. It just has to sit there close in front of the feeder to keep the wire from pushing the liner out the front of the welder right?
What would be nice is if the liner can self tap into the threads of that ferule you see in the pic on the gun end of the liner. That is how the plastic liner was secured in the gun. This is where the actual O.D. of the steel/plastic coating on the liner come into play.
I should be safe from fire as there is a good plastic strain releif where the wires go out the front of the welder and the big brass hardware in the picture affixes to a plastic chassis in front of the wire feeder using the washers and nut seen on it in the picture.
Thanks for any help in advance.
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Retrofit a 3/32" Plastic Wire Liner With Any Steel Liner
I have a Speedway 125 Series flux wire welder.
The plastic liner is shot. It plugged it self up solid with shavings from the inside of itself. . .
I figure a steel liner won't have that problem.
Here is a photo of the critical parts from my welder/gun with all measurements that might be needed. The left two parts are what hold the liner in front of the feeder drive. The right two parts are from the gun.
(It wouldn't let me upload it to this site so here is a link.)
http://i.imgur.com/pJAlkXH.jpg
Problem is, steel liners are usually called out by P/N from a parts list so nobody cares to offer diameters and other dimensions for people doing what I am and it makes it hard. The road less traveled again. . .
Ie. The vendor has no need to provide dimensions on the diameter of the actual liner and the length and diameter of any compression nuts or terminators on the ends and so on.
Can anybody help with this?
What I really need is to be able to get a caliper on a couple different common liners and find the one that I can get to work without modifying my existing parts [too much].
I don't have TPI on the threads but I can get that data if needed.
The length of my current gun lead is a tad short of 11 feet.
The flux wire size is .030-.035.
I looked at the miller 194011. It looks like a good low friction liner. But I don't know the diameter. I have seen a pic that indicated the thread at the nut is 3/8 so it won't fit my existing thread but it doesn't really have to. It just has to sit there close in front of the feeder to keep the wire from pushing the liner out the front of the welder right?
What would be nice is if the liner can self tap into the threads of that ferule you see in the pic on the gun end of the liner. That is how the plastic liner was secured in the gun. This is where the actual O.D. of the steel/plastic coating on the liner come into play.
I should be safe from fire as there is a good plastic strain releif where the wires go out the front of the welder and the big brass hardware in the picture affixes to a plastic chassis in front of the wire feeder using the washers and nut seen on it in the picture.
Thanks for any help in advance.
The plastic liner is shot. It plugged it self up solid with shavings from the inside of itself. . .
I figure a steel liner won't have that problem.
Here is a photo of the critical parts from my welder/gun with all measurements that might be needed. The left two parts are what hold the liner in front of the feeder drive. The right two parts are from the gun.
(It wouldn't let me upload it to this site so here is a link.)
http://i.imgur.com/pJAlkXH.jpg
Problem is, steel liners are usually called out by P/N from a parts list so nobody cares to offer diameters and other dimensions for people doing what I am and it makes it hard. The road less traveled again. . .
Ie. The vendor has no need to provide dimensions on the diameter of the actual liner and the length and diameter of any compression nuts or terminators on the ends and so on.
Can anybody help with this?
What I really need is to be able to get a caliper on a couple different common liners and find the one that I can get to work without modifying my existing parts [too much].
I don't have TPI on the threads but I can get that data if needed.
The length of my current gun lead is a tad short of 11 feet.
The flux wire size is .030-.035.
I looked at the miller 194011. It looks like a good low friction liner. But I don't know the diameter. I have seen a pic that indicated the thread at the nut is 3/8 so it won't fit my existing thread but it doesn't really have to. It just has to sit there close in front of the feeder to keep the wire from pushing the liner out the front of the welder right?
What would be nice is if the liner can self tap into the threads of that ferule you see in the pic on the gun end of the liner. That is how the plastic liner was secured in the gun. This is where the actual O.D. of the steel/plastic coating on the liner come into play.
I should be safe from fire as there is a good plastic strain releif where the wires go out the front of the welder and the big brass hardware in the picture affixes to a plastic chassis in front of the wire feeder using the washers and nut seen on it in the picture.
Thanks for any help in advance.
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spectrum 625 X-TREME tripping breaker on 120volts
as soon as i start cutting it trips the breaker? I've checked my settings and I'm running on a 20AMP receptacle and breaker? I may have skipped something in the manual...... any suggestions welcome thanks' dallas desantis
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